ANCIELA SS27 at LFW

18 Sept

Panels adjust. Sleeves detach. Layers tie and knot around the body rather than fixing it in place, so a garment can change with the person wearing it. Jennifer Droguett's collection takes the relationship between mother and daughter as its starting point. Care, protection, the passing down of knowledge, but also the tension and inheritance that come with it, which reads as a metaphor for our relationship with the earth.

The collection brings together vintage silk donated by Allegra Hicks, rescued wool suiting from Orsola de Castro, deadstock cotton, certified Tencel and recycled cotton. AlgaFila, spun from seaweed extract, air and nanotechnology, appears in knitwear and padding. Savigne by Planet of the Grapes, a plant-based leather made from grape skins, stalks and seeds left over from winemaking in Provence, turns up in garments and accessories. The abstract fern motifs, which is drawn from the layered dark of jungle and deep forest, and printed across an oversized powder-blue rugby shirt use a black bio-based pigment developed by synthetic biology platform Octarine.

Arnetia van den Berg

ANCIELA SS27 at LFW

Ana Mendieta’s Return to Tate Modern